Springs shoes are noteworthy for their architecture: soaring heights and fretwork. There were the caged booties at Saint Laurent (with evening heels in a silver grid pattern), surrealist wedges at Fendi, and Dior stilettos with heels molded in the shape of African fertility symbols. John Galliano’s metal platforms were perplexing as well as noisy as they tapped down the runway; the heel and sole seemed to be reflected duplicated. Hard to tell. Feather pompoms kissed the backs of Chanel’s silvery shoes. Louis Vuitton’s standout shoes seemed in concert with its sculptural jewelry. Jil Sander’s black suede stilettos were shapely and modern, some with a wide strap around the ankles. There were lots and lots of monster-truck platforms—at Dolce, Marni, Cavalli—ready to drive through next spring.
